January 2006

My Grouse

Paul, officially stating his ambition of curmudgeon-dom, has started a blog.

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First Steps

Today I met with Valerie, my faculty advisor and future committee member. Valerie was born and raised in Lima, educated in the U.S., and is a faculty member at Tulane working in Lima as an adjuct on several projects. She was very sick yesterday, so I met her at her flat in Barranco this afternoon.

Barranco is the neighborhood just south of Miraflores. Normally, it would be about a 30 minute walk along a precipice that divides the neighborhoods and ends at the coast. Although my walk started out that way, once I crossed el freno into Barranco, I got lost. It was great fun asking directions at each corner — and equally fun exploring as every person told a different story and gave a different direction for where I would find “Calle Carlos Zegarra.” Finally, I asked a woman walking with her son — she and I immediately clicked (she was very curious about my pregnancy and vowed to help me to the end) and joined me in a 8-10 block search until we found our destination. Overall, the trip was a great walk and lasted well over an hour.

The meeting with Valerie went great. We are in similar minds about a lot of things, including our expectations (i.e.: no grand expectations for monumental findings, but grand expectations for productive work). My plan for the next few days is to start arranging appointments with a variety of NGOs in the area and with a woman whom she recommended as an assistant. The idea is to start getting an idea about how health systems in Lima work (particularly in regards to women’s health services and programs related to issues of violence) and to start exploring the pobres jovenes, or shantytowns, that line the edges of the city. Eventually, I will graduate to informal interviews in these communities once I have a better idea of what I want to ask. Previous DHS-based research from last year (looking at low birth weight and violence) has given me a sense of how “science” is defining these issues and I’m curious to see how things “on the ground” compare. I’ll also volunteer with some of her colleagues at a local NGO assisting with a variety of academic papers that they are trying to publish (look over data analysis and help with presentation of the papers in english). This will provide a more established network and give the option of office space. There are also two folks doing research along my areas of interest here that Valerie has hooked me up with — so it will be great to have some colleagues with which to trade ideas/survey tools/contacts.

Step one we’ll face tomorrow: finding where we can rent a cell phone!! (Vonage is pretty crappy for local calls.)

Other “to do” items for tomorrow: finding another grocery store and getting household supplies (storage containers, clips, laundry detergent, etc.) and finding a good everyday shoulder bag for me to use.

No big birthday dinner tonight. Paul’s stomache is still giving him trouble and kept him uncomfortable most of the day, so he worked and rested. I came back from my meeting with Valerie (with an impressive sunburn and farmer’s tan), watched Will, and sent Josefina home early to enjoy the holiday with her family. For dinner, we walked around the corner for pasta plates and brought home some cake to share. We watched “Life of David Gale,” a movie I’ve wanted to see for awhile, and snacked. (The family who lives here have an incredible collection of movies and great taste, so hopefully we will do more movie watching while we are here!)

Happy Birthday to me!

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Mi esposo es un hombre mágico

Although suffering from a stomache ailment that kept him up all night, Paul performed magic this morning and set up the wireless in the house. I am no longer slave to his breaks for internet access and can type away at my own desk. (Unfortunately, the morning sun is glaring right on my face through the window, or this would really be a singing-from-the-rooftops moment.)

Will and I feel fine. I actually do feel a little queesy, but will take garlic tonic soon. I may have to force-feed Paul my homemade remedy, but it will be for his own good. (To combat stomache ailments while traveling, I whole-heartedly endorse the consumption of raw garlic. Try taking it down with milk or water and using a lemon or lime chaser. It works, it works, it works.)

The queesy belly could also be the baby, who, at 23 weeks today has been performing jumping jacks all morning — visibly punching out on all sides. If I didn’t know any better, I’d say I was further along that 23 weeks. Will was not moving like this so early… at least, that I can remember.

Last note: I posted to the expat mailing list looking for a pediatrician for Will. With a day, I received Twenty-Three helpful responses. What a friendly community!

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Sunset in Lima


The view from the cliffside (at the end of our street). The building on the pier is a very fancy restaurant. (We’d consider going there for my birthday tomorrow — it’s suppose to be great — but I think we need to wait a little bit before going out without Will!) Posted by Picasa

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Looking out to the Chorrillos section of Lima and Punta La Chira. Posted by Picasa

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Surfers still riding waves as the sun goes down. Posted by Picasa

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Looking north up the shore. Posted by Picasa

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My favorite from tonight. One of the sculptures in the parque with the city skyline behind. Posted by Picasa

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Chorrillos (Cerro Morro Solar is the peak) lit up. I’m not sure if the cross is a year-long thing, or there are part of the city-wide holiday decorations — tomorrow is epiphany (and of course my birthday.) Posted by Picasa

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Will had a great time running around the parque (near the sculptures pictured above). Posted by Picasa

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